A washer that won't fill usually has a closed valve, a kinked hose, clogged inlet screens, or a lid or door that isn't registering as locked. Work through this path in order; the first three steps take a few minutes and need nothing more than pliers and a bucket.
Safety first: Unplug the washer and close both water valves before you remove a hose, and keep a towel and bucket ready for trapped water.
Follow the diagnostic path
Step 1: Are both water valves behind the washer fully open?
If yes: Go to Step 2.
If no: Open them. On quarter-turn valves, the handle lines up with the pipe when it's open. Recent plumbing work often leaves a valve partly closed.
Step 2: When you start a cycle, do you hear the washer hum or click as if it's trying to fill?
If yes: The washer is calling for water, so something between the valve and the washer is blocking it. Check that the hoses didn't kink when the washer was pushed back, then go to Step 3.
If no: The control isn't asking for water yet. Go to Step 4.
Step 3: With the hoses off, are the inlet screens clogged?
If yes: Rinse the screens with an old toothbrush and reinstall them. Homes on private wells clog these more often; see our guide to well water appliance problems.
If no: Hold each hose over a bucket and open its valve briefly. Strong flow plus clean screens points to the washer's inlet valve.
Step 4: Does the lid or door lock engage when you start a cycle?
If yes: Go to Step 5.
If no: Many washers won't fill until the lock confirms. Look for clothing caught in the latch or a broken strike on the lid or door. A lock that won't engage on its own needs a technician.
Step 5: Does it fill on one temperature but not the other?
If yes: The problem is on that side only: its hose, screen or half of the inlet valve. If it's the hot side, make sure the water heater is on.
If no: If neither side fills with good supply and a working lock, the inlet valve, water level sensor or control is the likely cause.
What your answer points to
| What you found | Most likely cause | DIY or technician |
|---|---|---|
| Valve partly closed | Supply shut off | DIY |
| Hum, no water, kinked hose | Pinched fill hose | DIY |
| Gritty inlet screens | Sediment buildup | DIY cleaning |
| Lock won't engage | Lid or door lock fault | Technician |
| Good supply, still no fill | Inlet valve or level sensor | Technician |
Stop and call a technician if
- •The washer hums for a long time with no water entering.
- •You see water dripping inside the cabinet near the valve.
- •It fills on its own while the washer is off.
Keep it from coming back
- •Leave enough space behind the washer so hoses curve instead of folding.
- •Check inlet screens once or twice a year.
- •Replace hoses at the interval your manual gives.
Owen's shop tip: A lot of "won't fill" calls start right after someone pushed the washer back against the wall. Pull it forward a few inches and check the hoses first.
Good supply, clean screens and still no water usually means the inlet valve. ProFix Boston can test it; call (617) 812-1425 or see our washer repair service.